Yes, we'd arrived in Scandinavia. And we were f*cking pumped!
Easter Sunday at Skansen
After scurrying to our hostel we dumped our bags and charged towards Skansen, an open air museum and zoo which is traditionally where a lot of Swedish families meet up over Easter. We thought that we'd get amongst the Easter spirit.
The reason for charging towards Skansen was that the owl feeding was at 1230, it was 1140 when we walked out the door and Google Maps had it as a 50 minute walk. And yes, owls getting fed are the kind of thing that we get excited about. Unfortunately Maps didn't factor in that the owl enclosure was on the opposite side of a 30 hectare park. We arrived at 1232 to see the owl gobble down his first mouse. Success! We might've arrived bang on 1230 if not for some last minute directional input from Nicola.
The rest of our arvo was pure bliss. Heaps of cool Nordic animals (including 18 wild boar piglets), countless beautiful Swedish people with their munchkin like young, an elk (moose) flat bread roll that was bloody delicious and the beginning of three days of pure unadulterated Swedish sunshine.
The Beer Bars
Akkurat
After a fairly big 24 hours it was time to kick back for a couple at the world's second best beer bar (according to the RateBeer geeks that is).
It's just OK.
Outside of an epic vintage beer cellar (where the majority of that rating comes from) and a v good whisk(e)y list this is just a good (American styled) bar with a decent tap list. We were quite unimpressed.
And then when the Canadian rock band started playing and all of the desperate 'too old to be brushing their boobs on you' women rolled in it took me back to my days working at the Slug on a Friday night.
Oliver Twist
Is there anyone that works at this bar that isn't a wanker? Like a lesser Akkurat with shit staff.
Mikkeller Sthlm
The new player on the Stockholm scene. Immense success in opening bars in Copenhagen (twice over), San Francisco and Bangkok suggests that these guys might know what they're doing.
We were nervous walking in here having waited so long to drink at a Mikkeller bar.
They have the kind of tap list that you can sit there reading for half an hour and each time over it you find something and go oh, I can't wait for that. And that's exactly what we did. We sat there in silence during our first beer just gazing longingly at the chalkboard up behind the bar.
These guys aim to please too. The tasters come thick and fast, the bar staff want to chat and offer helpful but never pompous, wanky advice and the decor is conducive to an atmosphere that puts the focus 100% on what's in the glass in front of you. This is essentially the bar of our dreams. There isn't a way that either of us can see it being improved upon. Bring on Copenhagen.
The Noms
Kajsas Fisk
Nix went for their famed fish soup and me the Skagen Toast - the Swedish speciality of luscious, creamy prawns on toast. Both were impeccable. Nix's fish soup was pretty much that days catch swimming in a tomato-ey, oily fish stock.
Tunnbrodsrulle at Maxi Grillen
A flat bread filled with a grilled hot dog, a scoop of shrimp salad, a heap of lettuce, a couple of different sauces and the secret ingredient - a shitload of Deb - a Stockholm institution from the best stall in town, "guaranteed".
This was Nix's reaction.
That picture is maybe slightly out of context but still fairly accurate. It's about as good as it sounds. Or at least it's lost on us.
Cardamom Kanelbullar at Saturnus
A crispy sugary outside with a moist bready inside and a decent helping of cardamom do not begin to do this Swedish classic justice. So incredibly good.
Princess Cake at Vete-Katten
A cake that's synonymous with Sweden and was probably made for a Swedish princess at some point in time. I couldn't be bothered with the research for that one.
The cake itself though. Wow!
A super soft marzipan skin gives way to a sponge that is more air than cake, such is its lightness, gives way to cream that disappears upon contact with your tongue before the layer of raspberry jam punches through it all. I had to talk Nix out of one more each.
The Grand Hotel Smorgasbord
Of course you've already read about this over here - Hey Hey, Smörgåsbord
The Black Stuff
It took me getting through quite a few coffees going 'wow, these guys have done a good job pulling off the Scandinavian decor style' before I realised that shit, this is the Scandinavian style*. This is just what these guys do. And just like all of the Scandinavians themselves, it is so effortlessly cool that's it's truly intimidating.
Drop Coffee
Espressos pulled with care that kick start a day of exploring and eating on exactly the right foot.
johan & nystrom
The best coffee shop that I've ever been to? I actually can't think of a better one. Smoother espressos do not exist.
Snickarbacken 7
Relative to the two above this one isn't quite as polished. In saying that, if this was your morning hit at home you'd never have any complaints.
Some more pictures from around glorious Stockholm.
And unfortunately that was it for Stockholm and Sweden.
Barrie-ometer of "Feel" - can you hear the drums Barrie?
The Beers
Mikkeller Vasa Spontenale, YS2 Brett Brux, George!
Mikkeller/Grassroots Wheat is the New Hops
To Øl Liquid Confidence, I've Seen Bigger Than Yours
Lervig Rye Saison
Oppigard Single Hop
Skebo Herrgårdsporter
Nynäshamns Tjockhult Tjinook, Dragets Kanal, Påsköl
*also known as the 140 William decor style
