Alcohol and cigarettes in Sweden are significantly more expensive than they are in Tallinn you see. So for some, it makes economic sense to to do the 35 hour, €90 round trip from Stockton to Tallinn to stock up on as much booze and fags as you can physically carry off the ferry (with the trolley that you've brought with you of course). The record that we saw was a trolley stacked high with eight cartons.
However the Swedes don't stop at just stocking up for when they get back home. From the moment that they step on the ferry to Tallinn to the very last minute before they get back to Stockholm, it is a non-stop binge. We were lucky enough to catch the final leg of the crusade.
Our ferry from Tallinn to Stockholm left at 6pm by which point 95% of everyone on board were half cut. Out on the sun deck everyone just sits around in groups surrounding a bag of beers, chain smoking and hoeing down cheap snacks.
Then once the boat takes off it's duty free time and everyone begins to stack their trolleys high with carton upon carton before they head back to their rooms to load up before dressing up nice for a night of more boozing, more chain smoking and to hopefully find themselves a root.
It was at around 9pm (when Mr and Mrs Boring were sat there without a beer, or a bottle of vodka or a carton of cigarettes, and eating their supermarket bought salad and bread rolls) that the viking analogy clicked. The Swedes land in the lesser country, booze themselves stupid and have their way with the local women before setting sail back to their homeland and boozing just a bit more to celebrate before stumbling about on deck, looking for someone to shag. What a spectacle!
Apologies for the lack of photos. It was a feast for our eyes that we couldn't avert our gaze from.
Our time in Estonia was focused on much more noble pursuits such as drinking and eating. Hmmmm....
The Coffee
It continues to flow.
Gourmet Coffee
A half hour walk gets you out to Gourmet Coffee which before you've even had a coffee isn't the greatest proposition but there's a pot of black liquid gold at the end of this rainbow. Great espressos using various house roasted single origins provide the perfect start to your morning.
Kehrwieder
For a cafe that's located so close to the main square these guys make decent coffees at slightly inflated prices. Not bad for a quick stop before heading off to see the sights.
The Bars
These Baltic countries do love their beer.
Drink Bar
This one is a bit too English (which of course is never a good thing).
Pudel
This one is a bit too poncey.
Hell Hunt
And this one is a bit too American.
Porgu
This one gets it just right. It's a cavern bar, it's staff are lovely, the food is great, the beer list is extensive, has heaps of local stuff and is very reasonably priced, and they don't mind if you set up shop and stream the rugby. The other three are bars you can imagine anywhere else, this one you cannot. They got sick of seeing us I think.
The Interesting Eating Experience at III Draakon
I normally hate these themed restaurants but this one actually had a feeling of authenticity to it. It's in an old cavern off the main square with a blackened, sooty, stone ceiling, the only light is from a few candles and the decor genuinely looks like it's centuries old.
A surly wench barks at you, your beer comes in ceramic mugs and you have to fish your own pickles out of the barrel. Then you drink your "decent serving" of elk soup from the bowl, gulp down your beer and get stuck into a pie. The food wasn't that flash but the experience was fun.
A bit more of Tallinn for you...
The Beers (they're back in time for Scandinavia!)
Ollenaut Suitsu Porter, Eesti Rukki Eil, Humulu Padrun, Wahtula, Simkoe Eil
Pohjala Videvik
Brewdog Hoppy Easter
Mikkeller/Brewdog I Hardcore You
Mikkeller Beer Geek Bacon, Beer Geek Vanilla Shake
Lehe Lobus Njuufa
Meantime IPA
PINTA Imperium Atakuje
Huvila Arctic Circle
Hell Hunt Ale
