Showing posts with label Vikings. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vikings. Show all posts

Monday, 19 May 2014

Norway in a Nutshell

Another overnight ferry got us to Norway and this time we were lucky enough to share the sleeping quarters (read ferry conference room) with a group of chubby, Viking-like characters that managed to create a sleeping environment akin to a jungle.

The bus and couple of ferries that took us up the Norwegian coast soon laid out why we put ourselves through those unenviable sleeping experiences.

<insert beautiful photos that we never actually took>

We based ourselves in Bergen for a few nights to achieve a couple of essential Norwegian experiences - a trek up into the mountains and a journey deep into the country's world famous fjords.

First up was the trek.   Bergen is framed by multiple mountains, one of which our hostel was rather conveniently nestled under and from it we began the climb up Ulriken in hope of connecting with Fløyen, should we not wander too far into the Norwegian wilderness.


We took off in the season's latest hiking gear shoes that have essentially become sandles and some banging shorts that exposed my well toned hiking calves.  Lucky you, Bergen.


Things started off easily enough with a nice gradual incline but soon enough Nix was doing the splits climbing up rocks and we were physically crawling up the mountain.  It was at this point that we thought we were pretty hardcore until an eighty year old pushed past us as he ran back down the hill having already reached the top.  We pushed on and were treated to this.


Then began the trek to Fløyen where getting lost was never going to be an option given half of Bergen was out doing the trek seeing as it was a public holiday for them.  And I mean everyone - kids, dogs, grandmas, babies on shoulders...  These people are actually mad.

With views like these and that beautiful Scandinavian sun kissing your skin you can see why it might become somewhat of an addiction.






Five and a half hours after leaving our hostel we hit Fløyen and then descended into town for low fives, espressos, a mind-blowingly good hot dog, fish soup and the nectar of the Gods.  Yeah, we were pretty happy with ourselves at this point.


The following morning we staggered stiffly out of bed for this post's namesake, Norway in a Nutshell.  A tour where you book a bunch public transport tickets and venture into the Norwegian countryside to get a taste of what makes this one of the world's most picture perfect countries.

First up is a train to Voss.



Followed by a bus to Gudvangen,



where you connect with a ferry that takes you through the Nærøyfjord and the Aurlandsfjord and drops you in Flåm (pronounced Flawm and so much fun to say in a cheesy Norwegian accent).







After that you hop on the world famous Flåm Railway that takes you past scenery like this


to a waterfall like this


and drops you in snowy Myrdal.


The hype is not misplaced.  If you haven't already worked it out, Norway really is that beautiful.

Who cares if you pay $7 for a Coke, you could pay twice that and it still wouldn't feel like you're being shortchanged.

An overnight train then got us to Oslo for a brief eight hours exploring the city.

Tim Wendleboe

First up was a little coffee tasting session/experience/extravaganza from the godfather of modern coffee.


Sometimes people can take something that you thought you had a pretty good idea about and take it to somewhere that you'd never actually conceptualised it getting to.  That's what Tim Wendleboe has done to coffee.  Having a couple of coffees here is not just having a couple of coffees.  It is a full blown tasting experience and you are cheating life if a coffee from here is your morning hit.

The Viking Museum

Now that we were sufficiently caffeinated it was off to the Viking Museum where the Museum's centrepieces are three incredible Viking ships which are truly awe inspiring.



We then spent our final 30 krone on a hot dog that we shared with these guys.


Some Sculptures

Our final stop was The Vigeland Park to check some of these strange and interesting sculptures.  Pick the seagull photobomb.






Some Sleep

After that we headed back to an actual hotel for some last minute preparation, for our trip's most important day, and the best night's sleep we've had in months.  We (and now you) thought Norway was nice.  Wait 'til you see what we have coming.

The Beers 

Lervig Belgian Pale Ale, Kristenmannsblod, Konrads Stout
Beer Here Henrik Kaffesort, Mørke Henrik
Haandbryggeriet Dobbel Dose, Belgian Pale Ale, Berry Blend
Naparbier/Haandbryggeriet Eskua Saison
Ægir Double Chocolate Chili Stout

Monday, 28 April 2014

Tallinn, Raped and Pillaged by the Vikings

The year is 1014.   The Vikings descend on Tallinn and take it for all it's worth.  They drink their beer stocks dry, they rape and pillage and they just generally run amok.  Fast forward a thousand years and times haven't changed all that much.

Alcohol and cigarettes in Sweden are significantly more expensive than they are in Tallinn you see.  So for some, it makes economic sense to to do the 35 hour, €90 round trip from Stockton to Tallinn to stock up on as much booze and fags as you can physically carry off the ferry (with the trolley that you've brought with you of course).  The record that we saw was a trolley stacked high with eight cartons.

However the Swedes don't stop at just stocking up for when they get back home.  From the moment that they step on the ferry to Tallinn to the very last minute before they get back to Stockholm, it is a non-stop binge.  We were lucky enough to catch the final leg of the crusade.

Our ferry from Tallinn to Stockholm left at 6pm by which point 95% of everyone on board were half cut.  Out on the sun deck everyone just sits around in groups surrounding a bag of beers, chain smoking and hoeing down cheap snacks.

Then once the boat takes off it's duty free time and everyone begins to stack their trolleys high with carton upon carton before they head back to their rooms to load up before dressing up nice for a night of more boozing, more chain smoking and to hopefully find themselves a root.

It was at around 9pm (when Mr and Mrs Boring were sat there without a beer, or a bottle of vodka or a carton of cigarettes, and eating their supermarket bought salad and bread rolls) that the viking analogy clicked.  The Swedes land in the lesser country, booze themselves stupid and have their way with the local women before setting sail back to their homeland and boozing just a bit more to celebrate before stumbling about on deck, looking for someone to shag.  What a spectacle!

Apologies for the lack of photos.  It was a feast for our eyes that we couldn't avert our gaze from.

Our time in Estonia was focused on much more noble pursuits such as drinking and eating.  Hmmmm....

The Coffee

It continues to flow.

Gourmet Coffee

A half hour walk gets you out to Gourmet Coffee which before you've even had a coffee isn't the greatest proposition but there's a pot of black liquid gold at the end of this rainbow.  Great espressos using various house roasted single origins provide the perfect start to your morning.


Kehrwieder

For a cafe that's located so close to the main square these guys make decent coffees at slightly inflated prices.  Not bad for a quick stop before heading off to see the sights.


The Bars

These Baltic countries do love their beer.

Drink Bar

This one is a bit too English (which of course is never a good thing).

Pudel

This one is a bit too poncey.



Hell Hunt

And this one is a bit too American.

Porgu

This one gets it just right.  It's a cavern bar, it's staff are lovely, the food is great, the beer list is extensive, has heaps of local stuff and is very reasonably priced, and they don't mind if you set up shop and stream the rugby.  The other three are bars you can imagine anywhere else, this one you cannot.  They got sick of seeing us I think.


The Interesting Eating Experience at III Draakon

I normally hate these themed restaurants but this one actually had a feeling of authenticity to it.  It's in an old cavern off the main square with a blackened, sooty, stone ceiling, the only light is from a few candles and the decor genuinely looks like it's centuries old.


A surly wench barks at you, your beer comes in ceramic mugs and you have to fish your own pickles out of the barrel.  Then you drink your "decent serving" of elk soup from the bowl, gulp down your beer and get stuck into a pie.  The food wasn't that flash but the experience was fun.

A bit more of Tallinn for you...






The Beers (they're back in time for Scandinavia!) 

Ollenaut Suitsu Porter, Eesti Rukki Eil, Humulu Padrun, Wahtula, Simkoe Eil
Pohjala Videvik
Brewdog Hoppy Easter
Mikkeller/Brewdog I Hardcore You
Mikkeller Beer Geek Bacon, Beer Geek Vanilla Shake
Lehe Lobus Njuufa
Meantime IPA
PINTA Imperium Atakuje
Huvila Arctic Circle
Hell Hunt Ale