Thursday 6 March 2014

Fes, the Stuff that Happened in Between the Eating

So once again we rocked up in a Moroccan city with our shackles up prepared for war.  No, we don't want a cheap hotel, we don't want hash, we don't want to eat at your restaurant, we don't need you to show us the way, we don't want to go to the f*cking tannery.  We had round upon round of "la shukran" loaded up ready for the onslaught of hassle that was about to head our way.  Instead, I directed us from where the grand taxi dropped us to our hotel (the term hotel being used very loosely) with greater skill, awareness and balance in traffic than Israel Folau could ever hope to attain.

And the only thing that was said to us on our way?  "It's a beautiful day, thank you for bringing beautiful weather with you".  Hmm, are we in the right place?  Is this still Morocco?

This was a theme that seemed to continue over our week and a bit in Fes.  People were genuinely friendly without ulterior motive unlike what we'd come to expect elsewhere in Morocco and bar one incidence where we let our guard down a bit and were charged well overs for a couple of plates of food, the price generally seemed to be the actual price and there was no bullshitting around trying to rip us off.

Epic and intimidating are the two words that come to mind when I think about the Fes medina.  It's the biggest car-free urban environment in the world and the largest living Islamic medieval city in the world.  It's easy to get lost in any Moroccan medina but this one is at a whole new level.  Its few main arteries are a tourist's best friend but even with the safety of those, a couple of wrong turns and you'll soon be very, very lost.

That's tourists though, as I said before my sense of direction is impeccable so there were no worries here.  My only issues arise when Nicola tries to lead the way or suggests that we've taken a wrong turn.  Things tend to quickly go south from there.  Hmmmmm.......

Anyway, enough about how great I am and more about how great Fes is.

The Tanneries

Fes' number one tourist attraction.  Sorry, we didn't make it.

The Snail Shop

All around Morocco we've seen people with carts of snails but this guy had an entire shop that was literally crawling with them.  There were snails in every crevice, all on the move in hope of not becoming that night's dinner.


Bou Jeloud Garden

This is a true oasis in a very busy city.  And best of all it's a freeby.


Borj Nord

Another nice little escape from the hustle and bustle (I promise to never use that phrase again) is plonking yourself up on this hill for a while.  Very little hassle, shining sun and a lovely contrast between the busyness of the highway and medina and the simplicity of the piles of leather skins drying on the embankment and the donkeys and sheep grazing beyond.


Dar el-Makhzen

We thought Meknes' gates were grand.  These are the gates to the Fes Royal Palace and are the epitome of grandeur.  Simple stunning.


And this is the seriously good black market shit right here.  Nix started taking photos of this palace gate that's off to the left of the main one to be very lackadaisically advised that photos of it aren't permitted.  So enjoy that one, Nicola has been jailed for your viewing pleasure.


The Hammam Experience 

If you missed this post you've missed the greatest artistic collaboration since Kenny Rogers and Dolly Parton sung 'Islands in the Steam' together - I'll rub yours if you rub mine...

Barrie-ometer of "Feel" you know you want to...