Showing posts with label Malaysia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Malaysia. Show all posts

Monday, 6 October 2014

No Koalas in Kuala Lumpur

A few years ago we had one night in KL and determined that we hated it. We've since learned that judging a place based on a one night stay is fraught with danger and decided to give it another crack. The previous time in KL we thought the food was average, the people were pretty shit, there didn't appear to be any koalas anywhere and all in all it was a pretty boring city. So these were the highs and lows of KL's four night road to redemption.

Reacquainting ourselves with rats scampering around every corner, watching you whilst you eat, was not so much of a highlight.

Depending on who you ask this is a high or a low. We sat down for dinner and Nix felt her heel stick to the back of her chair and then looked down and realised that someone had had a direct hit with a big goober and it was making it's way down the back of her ankle. Who said KL wasn't famous for its oysters?

When you return to have dinner at the same place you had breakfast you know you're onto a good thing. Chili Pan Mee - spaghetti-like flour noodles, a soft poached egg, some small fried fish (ikan bilis), fried shallots and garlic, and a self serving of signature chili flakes. It got funky down in Chow Town, let me tell you that.


Bak Kut Teh is a herbal porky broth served with pork belly and intestines that held the mantle of the best meal of KL until the Chili Pan Mee muscled it's way to the top. Search it out if you're ever in KL.

If there's one thing that will get us out of bed in the morning it's the promise of good food. The promise of a food orgy had us running out the door. At the Imbi market we got stuck into popiah, a charcoal and black sesame custard tart, crispy pork intestine porridge, peanut pancakes, ginger chicken and downed two Cham (a coffee and tea mixture). Aside from the overpowering flavour of pork fat in the tart, nothing else disappointed.


It's the food failures that make the good ones so good is what I tell myself to get to sleep each night. On paper, Roti Babi (French toast with pork and onion inside) sounds pretty average, in real life it doesn't look much better and it tastes, quite frankly, pretty disgusting.


The verdict? The people were lovely, the food great and the city's gone up a notch or two in our book. Still no koalas though...

Monday, 29 September 2014

Penang, Where Cuisines Are Delicacies

A car ride, three planes, eighteen hours in airports and a bus finally deposited us in Penang.

Penang is the street food capital of the region and quite feasibly the world. The general concept in Penang (these days) is that you have a bunch of carts pumping out various Malay and Penang specialities and they cluster around one of the many coffeeshops dotted all around the city. 


You order what you'd like from a cart, take a seat and order a drink, and then within five minutes you have a streaming hot plate of noodles/soup/chicken rice in front of you with a nutmeg juice/Milo/tar-like Hainanese coffee to go with it. What this meant for us was five nights of eating,

Hokkien Mee
Char Kuey Teow
Chee Cheong Fun

eating,

Kaya on toast with soft boiled eggs
Dim Sum
More Dim Sum

some more eating,

Kuey Teow Th'ng
Char Kuey Teow
Rojak

a bit more eating,

Assam (Penang style) Laksa
Pig Brain Porridge
Braised Chicken Feet and Kuey Teow Th'ng

a little bit more eating

Hokkien Mee with Mantis Prawns
Curry Mee
Hainanese Chicken Rice

and then some more eating.

Ais Kacang
Lor Mee
Chicken Porridge

It was the perfect way to reacclimatise to Southeast Asia. Within 24 hours of arriving in Penang, Nicola had thrown up our first dinner into the street, thrown up her kopi ais into a different lucky street the next morning and I was pooing black. However these obstacles didn't deter us from the eating marathon. Here's hoping all Asian related stomach issues are now behind us and it's smooth movements from here on out.