PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT: I've got to make an apology. As much as laying on beaches and reading books and working on our tans and drinking cheap beers is a pretty good life for us, it doesn't make for very good blog reading for you, my faithful readership of five actual people and six internet bots.
I hereby pledge that from this point forward, until we set foot back in Australia, we will try to do some exciting, interesting shit and keep the posts about us lazing about on Turkish, Cambodian, Sri Lankan beaches to an absolute minimum. So, starting now, strap yourselves in for a wild ride Mum, Mum, Dad, Dad, Lizzy and bots 1 to 6.
Great cities are about layers. Nope, scrap that overused metaphor. Great cities have many different faces. Hmm, nope, try again. Istanbul: where East meets West, where new meets old. Lolz. Great cities have lots of shit going on that comes at you from all different angles and levels. Regardless of what shitty metaphor I come up with, Istanbul is without a doubt a great, great city.
Street food vendors dot every part of the massive, sprawling city, cats prowl, sleep and judge on every corner, ferries infest the waters that divide Europe from Asia and the new town from the old, the call to prayer fills the skies with music (and wakes you up way earlier than should be considered appropriate), Muslim women in burqas and headscarves walk side by side Western women doing their best impression of cheap street whores, and the list goes on. The point that I'm trying to make is that I don't think we've ever been in a more engaging city and we may never be again. So, here are the top ten things that we saw, ate, drank, did and enjoyed in Istanbul.
Basilica Cistern
The Blue Mosque is beautiful and anytime that you're in a still practising mosque it's a privilege and an honour.
And Aya Sofya is epic and amazing.
But we left both feeling that they hadn't lived up to the expectations that had been placed upon them. The Basilica Cistern on the other hand is a sight that did meet our expectations. Built in AD 532, this cistern held an f load of water for the Grand Palace and its surrounding buildings and aside from the fellow hoard of tourists, is one of the most tranquil and relaxing places in the city.
Turk Kahvesi
Turkish coffee. Pretty much my ultimate coffee. Thick, black and just a little bit sweet.
All throughout the city you'll be able to get yourself a decent Turk Kahvesi but if you're ever in Istanbul there are two names that you need to remember - Fasil Bey's and Mandabatmaz . Both produce Turkish coffee that is next level. Cemil at Mandabatmaz is a little unorthodox in his approach to making it and is an absolutely joy to watch from the back of his cafe as he goes about his craft.
Ferry Infestation
Ferries are an inexpensive, seamless way to go from just about anywhere in Istanbul to anyone of the other cities within the city. Every time you catch a ferry it's like a mini day trip and gives you unimpeded views of one of the world's most famous skylines.
Open Ayran
Ayran is a salted drinking yogurt that's brilliantly refreshing and works as the perfect accompaniment to spicy food. However, that's just the stuff in prepackaged tubs.
Our first couple of meals we ordered ayran and it came out in a tub, that's OK in itself but Turkish people around us were receiving it 'off-tap', if you will. So instead of me trying to indicate with my hands that we wanted open ayran, and looking like a nut job in the process, at our next opportunity we Googled Turkish for open (açik) and gave that a crack the next time we ordered. Open ayran comes from a machine like the one below and it helps to develop its frothy head and gives a product that tastes as though it's come directly from a cow who's been clamped and shook all about. It is salty, it is cowwy and it is delicious. You are forgotten to us now inferior, prepackaged ayran. Give me açik ayran or nothing at all.
Chicken Pudding
Yes, a pudding made with chicken. It's sticky and gelatinous and has a texture unlike any pudding that you've ever had before thanks to the intricately shredded chicken strewn throughout it. Dust it with some cinnamon and you've got yourself one very unique dessert. Or breakfast, as it were.
Part II over here!
