At its centre is probably my pick for the nicest, most interesting old town that we've seen on this trip and the world famous Stari Most - a 20 metre bridge that's a reconstruction of a 16th century Ottoman bridge that was destroyed (rather symbolically) during the Croat-Bosniak War and is the sole reason that a heap of people make the day trip from centres that are up to 4-5 hours drive away.
Those day trippers have made a sound decision because Stari Most and its setting against the beautiful old buildings that surround it with the emerald green river that flows underneath it make it a worthwhile jaunt. However what they miss out on seeing is the real Mostar, the ugly Mostar.
The scars of the Croat-Bosniak War are still starkly prominent just outside of the old town in what are now (once again) peaceful residential streets. Those scars provide a poignant introduction to a country and wars that a lot of us unfortunately know little about.
Scars from the greater Bosnian War are also still apparent in the nation's capital, Sarajevo, and buildings that remain as shells, after having been bombed during the war, provide a daily reminder of the atrocities that people who are now our age had to grow up through.
A visit to the History Museum (which is essentially a Bosnian War museum) left us exhausted and upon leaving we sat on a bench outside of the museum, unable to comprehend and reconcile what we'd just learned. B&H, and that museum in particular, gave us an insight into a world that is unrecognisable to the one that we're fortunate enough to live in.
Sarajevo's other key historical point of interest is the Latin Bridge, where Franz Ferdinand and his wife were murdered, an event which many believe was the straw that broke the camels back when World War 1 kicked off.
However, it isn't all doom and gloom in The 'Jevo.
Cevapi is a grilled minced meat dish that's like the southeastern European take on a kebab. Up until Kastel we didn't really understand it. After Kastel, we got cevapi. To be fair, we'd never had it like this.
Kastel takes four of the small skinless sausage like things, seasons them a bit a bit more than usual and then squeezes them together to make a little pattie. The result is an exceptionally moist little bundle of joy that joins three other friends in a well greased traditional flat bread along with some chopped onions, a couple of pickled chillies and a drinking yoghurt on the side. The result is a thing of rare beauty. We were very satisfied customers three times over.
The best coffee in Sarajevo is surely found at Cajdzinica Dzirlo.
Instead of watching people like us fail pathetically at attempting to drink coffee the Bosnian way, the owner sits down with you and talks you through what is a very particular process. Whilst that may look like a Turkish coffee, the desired result is quite different. Bosnians prefer a much cleaner coffee and the steps that you must follow to drink coffee the Bosnian way reflect that.
The freshly brewed coffee is brought to your table and firstly you must stir in any grounds that remain on the top of the coffee to wet them enough to ensure that they sink to the bottom of the džezva (pot). After leaving the coffee to sit for another 30 seconds you then pour it carefully into your cup, ensuring that you don't kick up any of the grounds that should now be resting on the bottom of the džezva.
Next comes the other key difference, how sugar is incorporated into the coffee. Instead of it being dissolved in the dzezva when it's brewed, you must take your sugar cube and dunk it into your coffee, suck the sugar cube and then take a small sip while some of the sugar granules are still hanging around in your mouth. Or alternatively you have a glass of serbe on the side which is a highly sugared, cinnamon spiced beverage that plays off nicely against the bitterness of the coffee. In my case, I go for the sugar and the serbe. There is no such thing as 'too sweet'.
The owner also knocked us up a salep - a milk and flower based hot drink made of wild orchid powder. What a great drink that would be in the depths of winter. One for our ever growing list of things to replicate once we get home.
The other highlight of Sarajevo was 'One Night in the 'Jevo' with these guys.
Inebriated being the operative word. But what did I enjoy most about hanging out with those three? Look at how brown I look in comparison.
And that was the very worst and the very best of B&H.
